There will soon be a blog devoted solely to garbage on the Italian seaside south of Naples.
Why? Because there are blossoming stacks of garbage everywhere. Even when trash collectors aren’t on strike. Even when it’s May and there aren’t many tourists to blame.
The norm is piles upon heaps upon full trash bins of smelly rat-infested garbage. Mountains of tossed-away garbage. Even on the beach.
How can one of the most aesthetic developed countries on earth be one of the trashiest?
Is tossing garbage anywhere, and pointedly ignoring waste receptacles, a genetic trait in southern (not that the north is that much better) Italy?
Is this the way Italians declare their personal independence and irritation with authority?
Is the Mafia failing to organize its garbage-collecting troops?
Is it a “sociocultural” thing, as twentysomething Alessandra tried to convince me this morning?
Or has garbage become the latest form of creative expression. Is every litterbug an artist? If so, we’ve got a lot Michelangelos and Leonardos coming our way from southern Italy.
What’s ironical is that the country has one of the most comprehensive recycling plans in the European Union. It just hasn’t caught on.
Actually I’ve learned to appreciate the vast amount of garbage strewn throughout Italy because it contrasts with the country’s omnipresent natural and manmade beauty. Garbage enables me to enjoy, as I MedTrek along the seaside, a yin-and-yang effect. I value beauty much more because of ugly garbage.
Incidentally the reason I thought about garbage today is that there is progress. Look at this neat garbage situation in Balestrate, the home of my Sicilian ancestors. In fact, the northwest corner of Sicily, from Balestrate to San Vito, deserves an award for trying to keep things clean.
And seeing all this garbage gives me more and more anecdotes for a long rumination on the topic, which also says much about southern Italy and the Mezzogiorno mentality, that will appear in my sequel to “The Idiot and the Odyssey: Walking the Mediterranean.
Oh, no, here’s a PS on May 13.
Text: Joel Stratte-McClure
Photos: Judy Barnett (2, Southern Italy), Joel Stratte-McClure (2, Sicily)
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