I’m not the only one who believes that Odysseus and his crew feasted on a herd of goats on one of the three Egadi Islands in the Mediterranean Sea. The buzz is that the purported feast occurred just before everything caved in during the showdown with the Cyclops called Polyphemus somewhere in Sicily.
I spent Sunday’s MedTrek on the trail of Odysseus and the goats. And you can see that I was delighted to find, and swim in, the bay where many believe that Homer’s hero moored his ship and hosted his mid-afternoon barbecue (which gave us the expression “goatea”).
It’s easy for any global trekker to visit this historic venue by following in The Idiot’s footsteps (excuse the hat hair, money belt pouch and injured leg in the photo) with these simple instructions:
1. Get a hydrofoil from Trapani in northwestern Sicily to the largest of the Egadi Islands, which were known as the Aegates or “Islands of the Goats” to the Greeks back in the day of Homer’s “Odyssey.” Be sure to go to Favignana, which is shaped like a butterfly, and not beeline to Marettimo or Levanzo.
2. When you arrive after the half-hour boat ride look for the highest spot in Favignana and climb up to put things in perspective.
Don’t worry. It gets closer with every step!
And if you get dizzy going up you can look back at the Favignana port.
4. Once at the top of Mount Santa Catarina head very carefully down the pathless hill (I cut my leg when one of those centuries-old stone walls collapsed underneath me so be sure to carry a first-aid kit) to the beach and then MedTrek along the dirt road to the lighthouse at Punta Sottile.
5. Head south at the lighthouse to the all-white tourist-oriented Villaggio “Approdo di Ulisse.” Continue on the path across the sharp, stark rock to the natural port of Cala Rotonda where it’s believed that Odysseus landed.
6. Enjoy the swim but watch out for jellyfish. And if it’s too difficult to get here with these instructions (you could, of course, just walk around the mountain instead of climbing it but that wouldn’t be much fun) this is exactly where you need to be:
Latitude: 37.92442
Longitude: 12.28029
Incidentally, I only saw a few goats and no men staring at them. Except me.
Text and Photos: Joel Stratte-McClure
19 Responses to Finding Odysseus on the Egadi Islands